If you have only a short time to spend in this the largest french speaking city in the Western hemisphere, I recommend you travel down Boulevard St. Laurent. It crosses the entire island, in the process passing through and affecting the character of the boroughs of Ville-Marie, Le Plateau-Mont Royal, Rosemont - LA Petite-Patrie, Villeray-Saint-Michel-PArc-Extension, and Ahuntsic-Cartierville to Gouin Boulevard at the edge of Riviere-des-Prarie, in all about 11 kilometres / 6.8 miles. 

Boulevard St. Laurent, called The Main by Montrealers, divides this city along lines of language, ethnicity, even class. For decades this north-south boulevard defined the worlds of the English speakers to the west and the Quebecois speakers on the east. The burgeoning immigrant communities fit in between these two cultural poles wherever they could. 

Among the faces St. Laurent will show you is Le Plateau, part of the greater Arrondissemont Plateau Mont-Royal. This neighborhood is the most densely populated in all of Canada, accommodating 100,000 people in 7.75 square kilometers / 4.81 sq. miles. Le Plateau tells a story repeated around the world, of a working class barrio (Jewish on the west end, Quebecois on the east, with a generous sprinkling of Portuguese and Spanish speakers thrown in) whose bohemian spirit began to attract the well healed. Well, you can guess what happened to real estate prices. Gentrification became a reality as the branchés decided this was the place to be.

Fortunately a romantic stay in this neighborhood can still be had for a reasonable price, especially at the beautiful Hotel de Paris (http://www.hotel-montreal.com/) at 901 Shebrooke East. If you can get room 26, the views are fabulous.

Then there is Schwartz's Hebrew Delicatessen (http://www.schwartzsdeli.com/) at 3895. Eating in this city is taken every bit as seriously as it is in Paris, Marrakech or New Orleans. So when the Montreal Gazette voted Schwartz's the best smoked meat restaurant there was an aligning of planets and a casting of pur. 

Those of us who don't live in Montreal tend to weep when we have to leave Schwartz's, especially the first time. Not to worry; they also sell through mail order, but you didn't hear that from me!

Píccola Itália

The Italian Montrealais have long been thought of as folks who really know how to live. Trilingual in a city where this is commonplace, they have preserved their language, culture and constitute the largest ethnic community in Montreal (counting French Canadians as ‘the norm').  

Little Italy lounges between Saint Zotique and Jean-Talon streets in Rosemont - La Petite-Patrie. On Boulevard St. Laurent there is no shortage of la dolce vita. Clothes, shoes and accessories in the Italian style abound here. 

That same style is echoed in the beautiful architecture, including frescos painted by painter Guido Nincheri (1885-1973). Just a little off the beaten path, at Rue Jean Talon and Boulevard Saint-Laurent, you'll find the Marché Jean Talon. The Italian Piazza design, stands of fresh and imported fruit and the constant swirl of people (a show in their own right!) add much to the European feel of this place. The staff however is the food. Come ready to eat as there are cafes, bakeries, bistros and the like.

If this seems like a good time to take a load off, there are some good choices. Try Zanetti, a corner cafe with a terrace where you can linger over cappuccino and a good view. Then there is Milano, at 6862 Saint-Laurent, with its celestial selection of cheeses, said to be Montreal's largest. Think these people aren't serious about eating? There is an entire section dedicated to olive oil!   Quelli Della Notte is not just another restaurant with great food. It transports you, back to the 1920's with its mirrors, red velvet and speakeasy charm. Chefs from Italy do a turn here so the food stays authentic, up-to-date and, well, Italian. Once you try the Fettuccine alla Mozzarella di Bufala there's just nothing left to say! Incidentally, I do not weigh 500 pounds (yet) despite the fact that I've personally eaten my way across this city. 

Down the block at 6792 Saint-Laurent you'll come to Librarie Italiana. This bookstore is repository of current Italian culture. Books, magazines, newspapers, CD's and movies - including the classics from Zieferelli and Bertolucci are available in la bella lingua.     

Jardin botanique de Montréal

Nearby the Olympic Village, Maisonneuve Park waits to be explored. Just so you know, for that next long weekend get away; the Jardin Botanique de Montreal at 4101 Sherbrooke east cradles a secret world of Asian treasures. 

The Chinese Pavilion, with it's winding paths, an artificial mountain, and the largest Chinese-style garden in the world outside of China. Here you can stroll among real Penjing – the Chinese inspiration for the Japanese Bonsai. You'll be tempted to linger and absorb what has been created here – a world apart from the bustling city in whose center you stand. But there's more.

The Japanese Pavilion, which features traditional Japanese arts, such as Iaido and Ikebana. There is a large Koi pond that somehow stops everyone who is determined to rush past, stealing away intentions to fit as much into a day of sightseeing as possible. Who can rush off when The Tea Ceremony is being performed? Oh, and when you come back, plan to sign up for lessons.

The First Nations Pavilion is a garden exhibit demonstrating traditional Native American artwork and construction methods. Finally there's The Alpine Pavilion, but don't get too tired here. There's more to see!  

Le Quartier Chinois

Yes, Montreal has a China Town. On la Gauchetiere Street between Viger and Rene Levesque seafood, dim sum houses, and Vietnamese Pho restaurants are the special features. During lobster season, restaurants there are so crowded it can be difficult to get a seat without a reservation.

Shops offer products directly imported from Mainland China or Vietnam difficult to find elsewhere. Soon you'll grow accustomed to the music of Cantonese, Mandarin and Vietnamese spoken on the street.

It surprises some that many of the immigrants from Southeast Asia arrived already fluent in French, owing to France's colonization of Indochina. Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, among other countries, sent some of their brightest and best to Quebec in a wave of immigration that has enriched this province immeasurably.

China Town has seen its share of dark days.

During the 1940's no one thought of China Town when it came time to celebrate a wedding anniversary or graduation. This was where you didn't bring the children, afraid of what they were sure to see on St. Laurent. In the 1980's new life was pumped into the area with some much needed development and investment from the Chinese community as well as the provincial government. Vietnamese and new immigrants from Hong Kong have taken over much of St-Laurent between Viger and René-Lévesque.

An obvious advantage of new waves of immigrants joining an established community is the revitalization of connections to the homelands. Visit Restaurant Hong Kong, Le Jardin du Nord and Ming Yeng and you'll taste the same delicacies being enjoyed now in Southeast Asia.

Little Portugal

Emphasis on the ‘little', the Portuguese area is located between Pine and Marie-Anne. The Portuguese area has largely absorbed what used to be the traditional Jewish quarter. Eight percent of the Jeanne-Mance district is of Portuguese origin, about 1,800 persons.  The Portuguese community in Greater Montreal, however, boasts some 50 000.    

Most of these immigrants are from the Azores, a province of mainland Portugal located in the mid-Atlantic. Fifteen percent are from the region around Porto, Portugal's second largest city, twelve percent from the capital city of Lisbon and five percent from the island of Madeira, off the northwest coast of Africa.   

Bela Vista, at 68 Avenue des Pins, offers real Portuguese pastries and a heated argument about Portuguese politics anytime you want it. Co-owner Marisa Cunha is originally from Angola, one of five lusophone African countries, thanks to Portuguese colonization.

Boulevard Saint-Laurent is the central street of the Quartier Portugais. It was in the neighborhoods on and around St. Laurent where Portuguese immigrants poured in through the 1950's intent on improving their lot in life.

The Flor de Lar Import Boutique, at 3981 Saint-Laurent, is the place to go for Portuguese residents of Montreal who want to stay abreast of what is on in Portugal. Newspapers, magazines, books, etc. are all on offer.

Chez le Portugais, at 4134 Saint-Laurent, is a great place to spend an entire afternoon talking and eating with old friends of making new ones. Portuguese specialties and European charm are the norm here.                                         

Le Quartier Latin

On Boulevard Saint-Laurent between Sherbrooke and des Pins av. you are in Montreal's Latin Quartier. This is also probably the density of stylish and trendy restaurants in the city. If you're looking for a good clubbing spot there is Angel's and Jaï. If it's billiards and some Montrealais ambiance you want try Bacci or Swimming in the afternoon. This is also a great place for the international sport of people watching. 

I don't know about you, but I'm exhausted!  This isn't nearly all there is to do on Boulevard Saint-Laurent, and we've only explored a single street in this fabulous city! 

The Montrealais are particularly friendly, the food is great, and there are few places better suited for romantic getaways or full scale family vacations. So even if you have just a little time and money, make the effort and get yourself un petit peu de Montreal.

Xica Travel Tips 

Tip 1) Montreal is a good idea anytime of year, but what gets the most publicity are the summer comedies, music, food and film festivals. We highly recommend Montreal in winter! No we haven't lost our minds; we've actually visited Montreal in winter.

Easy access to all the cultural attractions, no crowds and cheaper prices are enough incentive in and of themselves. But add the romance of Montreal in winter and you've got one of the best kept secrets in North America.

If you live in North America, call Via Rail (http://www.viarail.ca/) and ask for the Super Saver fare to Montreal. If you live in Europe or South America speak with TransAt (http://transat.com) about fares into Montreal. As for accommodations, the city offers everything from high brow hotels to cozy Bed and Breakfasts. We recommend Hotel de Paris, referenced in this issue's Travel & Culture article on Boulevard St. Laurent.   

Tip 2) Festival International Nuits D'Afrique (http://www.festivalnuitsdafrique.com), translated The North African Nights Festivals, at 4374 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, organizes cultural events throughout the year. Specializing in musical talent from throughout the African continent, they publish a calendar of events so you can plan ahead for those cultural getaways. It's in French, so you can practice before you go!